Author: Chris Wall
Photography: Jeff Cloud
Translator: Frank Xie()
Translator's Note: (The original Smart Muscle Part One: The Agonist Groups was published at http://, the original author's point of view does not mean that the translator's point of view, the translator is only truthful translation of the original text, this article is only for climbing enthusiasts reference. Need to reprint, please fully reproduced and indicate the source so that we can better understand this article!)
The first part of Chris Wall's article introduced the latest strength training methods for rock climbing. It also showed several specialized muscles for strengthening the contraction muscles (the main muscle used for climbing). The correct way to lift the muscles, which arise in pairs with the opposing muscles).
The second part of the article will describe how to strengthen the antagonistic muscles. They can keep your body stable when climbing. . During this time, you can start two or three sets of advancement exercises (for example, using benches or dumbbells to practice push-ups) to maintain muscle balance.
The misguided training method makes the climber get into trouble at first. It's time for us to finish dragging our knuckles on the ground. The completion of the dissertation at the Boulder Hall at Colorado University made me familiar with the latest research on strength and training. This research, which is also my personal experience as a rock climbing instructor, has convinced me that strength training is very beneficial to climbers. Strength training can help us prevent injuries and increase strength. It is much more effective than climbing training alone. But to achieve this goal, you must abandon the principle of error and adopt new strategies. One of the last absurd arguments is that the more muscle the better, this will produce more power. The fact is that even when we climbed the most difficult time on the rock wall, we only used only a fraction of the muscles that could produce. Making a muscle more stamina (faster recovery) than increasing it (increasing quality) is what rock climbers want. Recent studies have shown that when performing strength training, it is recommended that five repetitions of each movement be effective.
Another absurd statement is that you have to keep practicing until you can't do it. Studies have shown that this does not reach the desired goal. In theory, when you complete the fifth group of actions, you should feel that you can also do the sixth group, but not necessarily the seventh group. Keeping more than one does not guarantee that you will maintain the correct posture and reduce the chance of injury, while achieving a certain amount of stimulation of the muscles.
The only constant commandment is: "As much weight as possible." If you do not strive to increase the weight you can afford, you will not gain strength. (If you want to increase stamina, it's best to practice on a rock wall or in an indoor climbing gym; repeated weightlifting exercises are not very useful for this purpose.) But be prepared for each increase in weight. Do not use momentum (Translator's Note: For example, when the bar is put down, use the weight of the barbell to fall instead of relying on muscle strength to lay down) to complete the action. Do not let weight manipulate your judgment. All movements should be done slowly and strictly without movements, as shown in the photos in this article.
During the first few months of strength training, it is best to take a rest for 3 to 5 minutes after performing two sets of exercises. In this way, adding the third set of exercises can inevitably continue to increase the power. Use the proper load when starting the exercise and then increase the load by a few pounds each time. To maintain strength, doing one or two exercises once a week is enough. If you want to increase strength, you usually need more than two times, but don't overdo it: More than four times will have the opposite effect.
Strength exercises cannot substitute for climbing exercises: All your strength will not work unless you are effective. The cost of strength training is to make muscles more developed, so rest is crucial. All professional athletes will arrange their training schedules in advance, both when the exercise is light and when there is a lot of exercise. The same applies to you as a climber. Take care of yourself and rest well during training.
Training action:
Single-arm sitting rowing practice: Pull the handle to the ribs and use the arms, back and shoulders to maintain the correct posture. Small twists are allowed.
Standing uplifting practice: body tightened, use the power of the body, eyes looked at the ceiling, do not look at the mirror in the opposite, the lower back was bowed. The feet are separated by the width of the shoulder and the toes are slightly outward. Let pressure be applied to the heel, not the toes, keeping the back bowed throughout the lifting and lowering process. If your lower back feels sore after doing an action, perform some aerobic exercise properly to restore it so that you don't deform your movements too much.
Finger curling exercises: This action can safely increase the strength of your fingers. Let the dumbbell slowly roll in your hand and make it reach your fingertips as much as possible, and then slowly roll it back until it is grasped with a fist. If you do this, you will lose a few dumbbells before you master the movement, so be careful not to hit your toes.
Stretching exercises: Tilt your back and contract your abdominal muscles to protect your lower back and pull the lever to your hip position. The arm should maintain the same curvature as the elbow throughout the entire movement. If your lower back feels painful while doing an action, try to contract as much abdominal muscles as possible.
One-arm pull-down exercise: Pull the handle vertically downwards until the elbows touch the side of the body and use the arms, back and shoulders to maintain the correct posture. Do not allow distortion. Use your own power to pull the handle instead of letting the handle change your posture.
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